The sun is still shining and the sky is blue on Turkey’s Aegean coast. Mind you, a strong, cold wind is blowing which drops temperatures considerably, but quite a few die-hard sun worshippers find a niche and top up their summer tan in trunks and bikini. Everyone to their own, I guess.
Many visitor to Turkey may consider the country a summer destination, whether they plan to explore Istanbul or enjoy the Black Sea, the Aegena Sea or the Mediterranean. But, winter in Turkey is special and here are few tips where to go and enjoy a ‘different’ Turkey.
Bursa and Mount Uludag
A winter visit to Bursa is a rare chance to admire a city full of charm and history with a skiing adventure on the slope of Mount Uludag which rises to a height of 8343 feet right behind the city. A cable car runs up the mountain side, but in bad weather it doesn’t operate. No problem, a good road gives access to Sarialan and, about 4 miles further up, to the Hotel Zone where skiers congregate in winter and enjoy the slopes and the pristine snow. From December to April chains are required to negotiate the road.
Carpetmender in Bursa
Green tomb and mosque
Just the lower regions of Mount Uludag
Antalya
Famous as a summer resort with huge hotels on several beautiful beaches, Antalya itself is very attractive in the winter. Few tourists are around, so you can visit the outstanding archaeology museum in peace. Moreover, the streets along the port are lined with inviting restaurants and café with wood burning stoves outside and blankets thrown over chairs, so you can enjoy al fresco life style without freezing to death. Locals and residents make these cafes their home from home during the winter and you have a unique chance to hear all about life in the famous resort from real insiders.
Antalya's archaeology museum
Cafe in winter
Cappadocia in the snow
Who hasn’t seen pictures of the fairy chimneys and bizarre rock formations which make Cappadocia so special and such a great tourist attraction during the summer. Add on balloon rides, hiking trips and cave visits and you get the essence of Cappadocia. But, the real wonders of the ‘land of the beautiful horses’ which Cappadocia means when the Persians first named the area, real themselves when they are covered in snow. With a bit of luck you can watch wild horses running along in the snow. It’s bitter cold in winter, but there is nothing more romantic than staying in one of the many (well heated) cave hotels, sit in front of a log fire and watch the snow fall.
Cave hotel
Delicious Turkish winter food
So, if you want to avoid the crowds and high prices, consider visiting Turkey in the winter.
Tags: antalaya, bursa, cappadocia, mount ulugag, skiing in turkey, turkey winter trips
Posted by inka on Nov 16, 2012 in
art,
Travel tips,
Turkey,
Turkey Travel Turkey and carpets seem to be something of a synonym. It’s true, there are beautiful specimens around, particularly those made of silk, but after the umpteenths carpet dealer has jumped out at you, trying to lure you into his shop with promises to have the absolute best and cheapest, you somehow develop an aversion to carpets. This is closely followed by leather goods. How many handbags, jackets and coats do you need or even want to look at? So, I hope you don’t mind if I skip carpets and leather and turn my attention to lesser known, expensive and extremely beautiful things which I absolutely adore.
Silver filigree from Mardin and Urfa
Mardin and Urfa are cities in Turkey’s east and both have a long tradition of the craft of silver smiths. You only have to enter one of the many, tiny workshops and watch the artisans, bent over their worktables and, with nimble fingers, forge long, thin silver threads not only into jewelry but also ornaments and even sculptures. The skill and patience involved is outstanding, not to mention the need for eyesight. The finished objects gleam and sparkle and my fingers are itching to touch them and take at least one home with me. As you can imagine, these things don’t come cheap but a smaller item may be within the budget and you will have a ‘souvenir’ or gift you won’t find anywhere else.
Ceramics from Cappadocia
Izmit tiles are among the finest to be found in Turkey, but, as I discovered on my recent trip to Cappadocia, they make a very different kind of ceramic. No color, just white or gray and they depict the rock formations, caves and cave dwellings which are so typical for the Cappadocia landscape. These sculptures come in all sizes, some are also tinted yellow or pink which I find deplorable, but the grey or white ones are unique pieces and, contrary to the silver, not very expensive. I also liked the animals, they make. I think, they are cute.
Meerschaum from Eskisehir
Meerschaum is a white mineral, mostly found floating on the Black Sea, hence the name. But it’s also found in the mountains around the city of Eskisehir in Anatolia, half way between Istanbul and Ankara. Meerschaum can be carved like ivory and hardens when exposed to heat or sunlight. Equally like ivory, the pieces take on a yellowish tint through use, time and heat. It’s mostly made into pipe heads and the heyday of the craft occurred during the Ottoman empire when truly marvelous and gigantic pipe heads were made. The cravings are as fine as filigree. I was delighted when I discovered a Meerschaum Museum on my visit to Eskisehir a few months ago. But, it’s not only pipe heads that are made, but also ornaments ad jewelry. Antique pieces are displayed as well as more modern ones because the craft is alive and well in Eskisehir. You can order replicas of the antique pieces if that is what you fancy and if you have a few thousand $ to spare. Otherwise, you better settle for a more modest, modern set or content yourself with just admiring the beauty of it all.
So, you see, there is more to Turkey than carpets and leather.
Tags: cappadocia, meerschaum, silver filigree, turkish crafts, urfa
The big move is just around the corner. After nearly six years, living on and off on Turkey’s Aegean Sea coast, it’s time to move on. My nomadic nature claims a radical change of scenery, country and culture and I can’t ignore that call any longer. I have been told that I’m crazy, that this is the kind of thing people in their 20s or 30s do, but not those in their 60s. I couldn’t agree less. What does age have to do with how you feel and what you want to do. I’m of course very lucky because I’m totally independent. No family responsibilities, no clinging husband, boyfriend or partner…been there, done that, thanks very much!!
On Saturday, I’m off to Spain’s Costa Blanca house hunting. It won’t take me long, as I have already set up plenty of viewings, opportunities are plentiful.
A time like this invites to retrospective and that’s what this post is basically about. I have had a good time in Turkey and I have seen many, many wonderful things and had great experiences. Here is an overview of what – for me – is Turkey’s best.
My preferred region is the Southeast, a part if this huge country not that many tourists go to or even know about. Mardin, Urfa, Harran and Hassankeyf, all overlooking the timeless and historical plane of Mesopotamia are my favorite. Enjoy the pictures.
Mardin
Hasankeyf
Mardin at night
Typical street in Urfa
Harran
The glamorous Kurdish dress
Next on the scale is Amasya and Turkey’s Black Sea region. I didn’t make it to Trabzon, but it should be included.
Amasya
Bridge over the Green River
Home to the historian Strabo
Much more popular than the above two regions is of course Cappadocia. Nobody who sees the crazy tuff formations, the fairy chimneys and the fabulous valleys can escape the special fascination of this unique landscape.
Cappadocia
Caves in Aksaray
Pigeon valley
The Southwest and Antalya in particular is very different and my favorite spot in Antalya is the Düden waterfall.
Hadrian gate Antalya
Düden waterfall
Flames in Olympos
Archaeology museum Antalya
Of course, Istanbul cannot be left out in this summary. I’ll dispense with mentioning the world famous sites everybody knows about and instead draw your attention to Eyüp overlooking the Golden Horn.
Pierre Loti Cafe Eyüp
View over the Golden Horn
And lastly, I need to mention Bursa, home of Karagöz and Hacivat, the original Iskender kebab and a green mosque and türbe which can easily compete with the Blue one of Istanbul.
Karagöz and Hacivat museum
Green türbe
One of the famous puppets
Iskender Restaurant
A mender of antique carpets
Will I be back? Probably, but not any time soon. Spain beckons. So much to see and do, it certainly will keep me busy until….it’s time to move again.
Tags: amasya, antalya, bursa, cappadocia, costa balnca, hasankeyf, mardin, southest turkey, turkey sights, urfa
Posted by inka on May 23, 2012 in
art,
museums,
Travel tips,
Turkey,
Turkey Travel Turkey and carpets seem to be something of a synonym. It’s true, there are beautiful specimens around, particularly those made of silk, but after the umpteenths carpet dealer has jumped out at you, trying to lure you into his shop with promises to have the absolute best and cheapest, you somehow develop an aversion to carpets. This is closely followed by leather goods. How many handbags, jackets and coats do you need or even want to look at? So, I hope you don’t mind if I skip carpets and leather and turn my attention to lesser known, expensive and extremely beautiful things which I absolutely adore.
Silver filigree from Mardin and Urfa
Mardin and Urfa are cities in Turkey’s east and both have a long tradition of the craft of silver smiths. You only have to enter one of the many, tiny workshops and watch the artisans, bent over their worktables and, with nimble fingers, forge long, thin silver threads not only into jewelry but also ornaments and even sculptures. The skill and patience involved is outstanding, not to mention the need for eyesight. The finished objects gleam and sparkle and my fingers are itching to touch them and take at least one home with me. As you can imagine, these things don’t come cheap but a smaller item may be within the budget and you will have a ‘souvenir’ or gift you won’t find anywhere else.
Ceramics from Cappadocia
Izmit tiles are among the finest to be found in Turkey, but, as I discovered on my recent trip to Cappadocia, they make a very different kind of ceramic. No color, just white or gray and they depict the rock formations, caves and cave dwellings which are so typical for the Cappadocia landscape. These sculptures come in all sizes, some are also tinted yellow or pink which I find deplorable, but the grey or white ones are unique pieces and, contrary to the silver, not very expensive. I also liked the animals, they make. I think, they are cute.
Meerschaum from Eskisehir
Meerschaum is a white mineral, mostly found floating on the Black Sea, hence the name. But it’s also found in the mountains around the city of Eskishehir in Anatolia, half way between Istanbul and Ankara. Meerschaum can be carved like ivory and hardens when exposed to heat or sunlight. Equally like ivory, the pieces take on a yellowish tint through use, time and heat. It’s mostly made into pipe heads and the heyday of the craft occurred during the Ottoman empire when truly marvelous and gigantic pipe heads were made. The cravings are as fine as filigree. I was delighted when I discovered a Meerschaum Museum on my visit to Eskisheir a few weeks ago. But, it’s not only pipe heads that are made, but also ornaments ad jewelry. Antique pieces are displayed as well as more modern ones because the craft is alive and well in Eskisehir. You can order replicas of the antique pieces if that is what you fancy and if you have a few thousand $ to spare. Otherwise, you better settle for a more modest, modern set or content yourself with just admiring the beauty of it all.
So, you see, there is more to Turkey than carpets and leather.
Tags: cappadocia, east turkey, eskishehit, mardin, meerschaum carvnigs, siler smiths, turkish art, turkishcraft, urfa
Posted by inka on May 16, 2012 in
Day trips,
Travel tips,
Turkey,
Turkey Travel If you have read my previous post, you will know that after a 12 hour coach journey we went on a 3 mile hike along the Ihlara Valley and that was only the start of day 1.
Because, the next stop, after we had just about caught our breath, was a rather daunting experience and certainly not a one I would recommend to anyone prone to claustrophobia. We descended about 100 m below ground to visit Derinkuyu Yeralti Sehir, the biggest of several underground cities all over Cappadocia.
11 floors deep, along narrow passages, up staircases we climbed. These underground cities, some of which are interconnected by tunnels, date back to either Persian or Byzantine times and provided shelter and refuge for something like 35000 people. Each level could be closed off by one of these tremendous circular stone doors.
Circular stone doors with a 'peep hole'
They had wine presses, stoves, storage facilities and a lot more to enable the people to survive for a long time. Ventilation shafts provide air, but it is an experience I could have done without because frankly, after a mostly sleepless night on the bus and the long hike, I was lightheaded and was very happy when I saw daylight again.
The next stop on the agenda was far better, at least it was above ground and in the open air. Pasabag, also known as the Valley of the Moncks, is the site with the most splendid examples of Cappadocia’s fairy chimneys. The name Valley of the Moncks derives from a few freestanding pillars and, maybe also from the fact, that several hermits chose caves in the chimneys as their dwellings. There is also a church, dedicated to St. Simon, but you can wander along endlessly among these stunning tuff stone formations.
Everybody has seen countless photographs of Cappadocia’s most emblematic sites, but it’s a unique experience to actually be there, look up at the formations and listen to the wind whistling through the gaps. What I would really like to do, is return in the winter and see the whole thing again, covered with snow, bare of tourists and maybe catch sight of some of the wild horses which still live there.
Tags: cappadocia, day trips turkey, derinkuyu, fairy chinmeys, underground city, valley of the moncks
