A silly conversation…or not?
A silly conversation…or maybe not?
The grandly name Palace Hotel in Amman was the humblest abode I have ever been in. (Save the camping stint in Naxos). $30 a night bought me a narrow bed, my one bathroom with leaking shower, a barely closing door and window and breakfast. For $25 you could share a bathroom, but there are limits to the extremes I will go to.
Lobby of the Palace Hotel Amman
What the place lacked in glamour though, it made up for in atmosphere. This was a hotel where real travelers came, from many nationalities and of all ages. Sitting in the salon I could distinctly feel a spirit of adventure emanating from my dust covered fellow guests who were just coming back from a trip to Petra or about to set out for a desert tour of Wadi Rum. Stories flowed from table to table and I loved every moment. That’s where I met Dave, a photographer from Arizona who was only too happy to share my car and driver on my planned trip to the Dead Sea.
Off we went the next day with our trusted Hani and when we came to the turn off to King Hussein bridge on the desert highway, naturally we asked: “where does King Hussein bridge lead”.
Desret Highway leading to the Dead Sea
“To Israel,” Hani replied.
“Oh,” we said, “can we go?”
“No”.
“Why not?”
“Because you have no business to go to Israel”.
“Of course we do, we want to look. Let’s go”
By now Hani shot us some concerned glances. “No,” he insisted, “You can’t. The soldiers will stop you. It’s impossible.”
“Can we take pictures of the soldiers then,” Dave asked.
Hani came to a full stop and turned around outraged. “They will take your camera if you are lucky, or they may shoot you”. By now he may have had second thoughts about the kind of passengers he had in his car.
Now Dave had a bright idea. “I know how we can get famous,” he said to me. “If we can’t go over the bridge, you start swimming across to Israel in the Dead Sea and when they start shooting, I’ll take pictures.”
“Dave,” I replied all serious, “why don’t you do the swimming and I take the pictures?”
“Because you are better looking and just think about the headlines: glamour granny gets shot whilst trying to take a look at Israel! Instant fame!”
We had a good laugh and Hani stepped on the gas to get us past the turn off to the bridge as fast as possible in case we had some more silly ideas. The whole thing was a lark but an essential truth about the essence of a real traveler’s soul was revealed: we feel the need to stick our nose where it is not necessarily welcome. We need to look behind the façade and leave no stone unturned. We love to admire the famous sights and the pretty picture like everybody else , but we also need to know what lies behind and, a true traveler is fearless.
Heading in the direction of Israel!!
I wonder what stories you have about situations when your traveler’s curiosity lead you into potentially dangerous circumstances. Please, do tell! Did you throw caution to the wind or did reason prevail?
So did you ever get to go to Israel? Aren’t you able to just apply for a visa to go there? I was reading this thinking that Hani was joking…
Or was he saying that because of where you were coming from and coming by land?
You can’t just go by land. You can’t apply for a visa either if you have Middle East visas in your passport. Hani wasn’t joking at all.
I had no idea that going to Israel would be so difficult or dangerous! I often found that when traveling as a single women taxi rides were the most dangerous situations you could potentially find yourself in. Since you often had no idea whether you were headed in the right direction and in some places you hear horror stories. I’ve been lucky.
Not to be inappropriate, but Glamour Granny has it going ON in the last photo! Is that the Dead Sea or a fountain of youth?
Thank you guys, you make me blush. There must be something in the water, dip in often enough and…
I agree Laurel. I have been lucky too, so far.
HI Inka, That’s funny. I hope Hani didn’t believe what he was saying. The King Hussein Bridge exists so that people – tourists and locals – can cross from Israel to Jordan and vice versa. You just take your passport and cross. No shooting involved.
I”m glad you got to experience the Dead Sea. I did too – on the Israel side
Great story! We are pretty adventureous, but sometimes VISAs and country laws limit us from what we really want to do.
Hi again, Inka. Maybe Israel treats German passport holders different than U.S., but I doubt it. Americans and many other nationalities don’t have to apply for an Israel visa. You get it at the border when you arrive. And it’s free. And you can absolutely cross by land. There are at least two bridges between Israel and Jordan (it might actually be three) as well as a crossing from Egypt into the Negev Desert in southern Israel.
I’ve been to Israel twice and gotten a visa with no problem. The second time I went to Israel, I had visas from two Arab countries in my passport. Again, no problem getting in to Israel. You absolutely can get an Israel visa if you’ve got Arab visas in your passport. Since you’ve living in Lebanon and Turkey, they might ask you a lot of questions before they let you in, but they would undoubtedly let you in. It is Arab countries that you cannot travel to with an Israel stamp in your passport. They simply will not allow you in, with the exception of Egypt and Jordan. They don’t recognize Israle’s existence; therefore, they don’t recognize the stamp. Israel is extremely understanding about not stamping people’s passports when they arrive, if you ask them not to. I don’t have an Israel stamp in my passport because both times I traveled there I asked them not to give me one. The second time, they asked why. I said because I want to travel to Arab countries again. So they didn’t stamp my passport. If you’re interested in going, to Israel, you can definitely go!!
[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Adam Seper, inka piegsa. inka piegsa said: Add This: http://www.glamourgrannytravels.com/2010/12/02/a-silly-conversation-or-not/ [...]
go inka! it’s those moments that get the heart pumping and make you feel so alive, right? i draw the line at guns & knives, but sometimes it’s invigorating to just get a little close
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